Dry calathea crocata

Dry calathea crocata

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Question: calathea crocata

Hi, my Calathea Crocata has some orange flowers that darken. What should I do? Do I have to cut them (at what height) or do I let them fall by themselves? I also wanted to know if I can leave it in the jar where I bought it or transplant it into a bigger one?
Thanks, see you soon

Dry calathea crocata: Answer: Calathea crocata

Dear Lara,
the inflorescences of the calathea crocata they are made up of bracts, among which small flowers bloom; usually, at the end of flowering, it can happen that the inflorescences produce new leaflets, which will go to break off and form a new plant; or they dry up slowly. If the inflorescences dry out, turning yellow first and becoming completely then, it is sufficient to remove all the inflorescence, starting from the base of the stem, using a well sharpened and clean shear, so that the cut that is created is not a vehicle for infections and heal quickly. If instead the inflorescence becomes dark and soggy, it may also be that it is not the normal evolution of the inflorescence itself, but of manifestations of some fungal disease, which tend to develop in the joint when the soil is kept constantly humid. In this case, in addition to removing the inflorescences, which in any case will completely wither, it is also advisable to provide the plant with a systemic fungicide, with watering, so that it is absorbed by the plant, and that it eliminates any fungal disease in progress. These plants love a humid and semi-shaded environment, and therefore usually the advice that is received most often is to water them very often; but in reality, in the autumn and winter months, the watering must also be only sporadic, in order to keep the soil cool and moist, but not wet. To increase humidity, on the other hand, it will be necessary to vaporize the foliage often. At the arrival of the warmer climate and longer days, watering can be made more frequent, which should be provided only when the soil tends to dry out, avoiding water stagnation. From April to September it is also advisable to supply every 15-20 days with fertilizer for green plants, mixed with water for watering. If possible, flat flats like to be moved outdoors, in the garden or on the terrace, in an area where they do not receive direct sunlight during the hottest hours of the day. Remember that in June and July watering must be intensified to cope with dry heat and poor rainfall. IF you are instead forced to grow your calathea at home throughout the year, I advise you to place the pot in a large pot holder, in which you will place at least 4-5 cm of expanded clay, or gravel, which you will always keep immersed in water, so that it constantly evaporates, without reaching the base of the vase. These plants do not particularly like excessively large containers; they should be repotted every two or three years, in autumn, but avoiding to move them in excessively large pots.


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